Hickatee Cottages, Punta Gorda, Belize

 

Punta Gorda

Travelling to southern Belize is a whole new experience. The landscape is different and the ethnic groups  differ from other parts of Belize. The Toledo District is home to the Mopan and Ketchi Maya, Garifuna, Kriol, East Indians, and Chinese. Small, traditional, Mopan and Ketchi villages are scattered throughout the region, serviced by several bus lines operating in the area. The region is rich with beautiful rain forest, caves, waterfalls, cenotes, and ancient ruins backed by the Maya Mountains,as well as the coastal port at Punta Gorda. You can take a boat from PG to Guatemala or Honduras.

I arrived by the Pop bus-line to Punta Gorda, after a two night visit with a Ketchi Maya family in Indian Creek, Toledo District.  I left the small village in the pouring rain as I waved to the naked little girl who ran out of her house to bid me farewell.  My experience in Indian Creek was very profound and personal so I won’t write about it here but I feel very blessed to have made new friends there.

When I got off the bus in Punta Gorda, I agreed to accept the help of a local man, who insisted on walking me to find my hotel and then insisted on getting the $6 BZE that the taxi would have charged me, so he could buy milk … hmmm. I gave it to him. The same fellow tried to get money from me later, forgetting he already had. That time I said, no. I checked into the Charlton Inn. It was ok for one night, but not worth the money unless you must have a flat screen TV with a million channels. I desired a different experience, so rather than stay the 4 nights I initially intended, it didn’t take me long to start calling an alternative.

I reserved a stay at Hickatee Cottages, about a mile out of town. Ian and Kate are the owners: an English couple, who have been coming to Belize for almost thirty years and have been at Hickatee, permanently for nine. The place was exactly what my soul needed; a quiet, jungle retreat with howler monkeys “roaring” and “barking” in the distance.

Hickatee guests are invited to record when they hear or see the howler monkeys and at what direction and distance. I heard them several times but the loudest was at 2:30 am.  I left the sanctity of my lovely room and ventured outside in the dark, to get a more accurate recording. The data is part of a study taking place by a university in the States.

The property itself has private walking trails with plant and tree species marked and a reference manual to take with you on your 25 or 45 minute hike. My hike was unfortunately halted by rain and flooded trails, so I didn’t get very far, but far enough to enjoy the sounds and coolness under the jungle canopy. A gentle little stream passes through the property as well. Ian told me there are 40 types of orchids growing on the property. I saw a few in bloom. If the weather would have been warmer and drier, I would have taken advantage of the plunge pool that lies in the middle of the beautiful garden.

 

Varying continental breakfast was served on the main veranda, after complimentary coffee was delivered by Ian, to my veranda, at the precise time I arranged. Perfect!  Dinners were by reservation at breakfast. I had calaloo soup one evening that was the greenest soup I have ever eaten. The meals and rum punch were delicious as were the traditional thin English pancakes served with lime and sugar.

Ian and Kate also maintain a wonderful library of books featuring Belize, and Garifuna music that plays softly in the background. The couple are a wealth of information and they shared it openly with me. They have also been studying the bats on the property and provide an ultrasonic speaker that picks up the bat activity during nightfall. Couldn’t see the bats but I could hear them. Ian is able to identify the type of bat by its unique frequency. There are an abundance of species that live here. Ian can tell you how many as the number escapes me. That was cool!

I am happy I treated myself to this small establishment whose philosophy is minimal impact to the environment and maximum benefit to their adopted community. You can read more about this on their website. www.hickatee.com

I hope to return one day for another stay.  

Additional info:

Cab ride one-way from Punta Gorda – 20 BZE however, Ian will pick you up upon arrival and return you when leaving. While it is only a mile from town, it is a slow, pot hole filled drive. It is the rain forest after all.